I’ve lost count of the amount of times I’ve talked about the Chicken Chargha I ate for lunch on the train in 2019. How it was delivered wrapped in newspaper inside a carrier bag and slid through the train window. How my mum attempted to portion the whole bird with a plastic knife and fork on a moving train. And how we ate it on disposable plates with runny saalans and roghni naan, precariously balanced on our knees.